Bydgoszcz is a river city on the Brda, best known for Mill Island and the colourful granaries reflected in the water. The old canal, opera house, and restored warehouses give the centre a distinct feel without capital-city scale.
It is a regional hub with its own airport and a walkable downtown between the island and the main square. Music and water matter here as much as monuments. From Pomerania it is a straightforward drive and a different atmosphere from the Baltic coast.